Brisbane

In many ways, Brisbane is a town. A big town, trying hard to be a city, but a ‘nice’ town. I think ‘nice’ is a word that would be used by a lot of people describing Brisbane. On looking down while flying in: ‘It looks like a nice city’. On the way into town: ‘That’s a nice river’. On cruising the river: ‘They’re nice bridges’. And so on. Flying into Sydney, however, may elicit, ‘What a fantastic harbour!’. Someone driving though leafy Melbourne may comment, ‘What a charming city’. And, of course, Sydney would say to Brisbane, ‘You call that a bridge?’. But one thing that’s particularly nice about Brisbane is that it is full of nice people. And I mean that in the nicest possible way.

Brisbane is a young, relaxed city and it’s easy to get about. There are many fine galleries and museums, as well as first class shopping, theatres and nightlife. All along the banks of the Brisbane River are parks and recreational boardwalks, play and picnic areas, walking and bike trails, restaurants, cafés, markets, pontoons and fishing facilities. Fast ferries provide an efficient, inexpensive and fun way to explore the river and the city, and the gracious River Queen paddle-wheelers or Gondola Cruises take life a little more leisurely. Or you could have a pushbike delivered to your hotel - there are cycling tracks all through the city.

If it’s sun, sand, surf, rainforests or theme parks you’re after, a few days in Brisbane should be plenty before heading north or south. So, what to do with those few days?

Top Five

1. Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort
2. South Bank Parklands
3. Fortitude Valley
4. Mount Coot-tha
5. Manly

Suggestions

Just a walk across Victoria Bridge from the central city is South Bank, the heart of Brisbane's cultural, recreational and entertainment scene. On your right is the Queensland Museum, which has exhibits from whales to dinosaurs, snakes to snails and crabs to crocodiles, as well as special exhibitions.

The nearby Queensland Art Gallery will reward art lovers with its internal water feature and Australian and Aboriginal collections. Nearby, the State Library of Queensland is not just a place full of books. You can access the Internet, trace your family tree, view visiting collections or watch a classic film - most services are free.

Across Melbourne Street, the Performing Arts Complex stages some excellent theatre and music, and the Imax Theatre screen soars eight floors above the audience.

Across Grey Street are the South Bank Parklands, 16 hectares of river frontage parklands. Landscaping reflects rainforest, lagoon and beach environments and The Arbour, a flower-covered walkway, winds through the precinct. On the riverbank is Breaka Beach where sun, sand and lifeguards deliver a beach experience to the heart of the city. This is a somewhat curious concept to me. Did some slightly paranoid person suggest that, because Sydney has beaches, Brisbane should have one? After all, some of the world’s best beaches are only an hour away. Having said that, it’s still fun. There are cafes and restaurants, and the South Bank Village Markets, open every Friday night, Saturdays and Sundays. The Queensland Maritime Museum is at the Woolloongabba end of the Parklands and is home to a World War II frigate, a 1925 steam tug and many other fascinating bits for those into nautical relics.

In the city itself, the Queensland Sciencentre is a hands-on, fun science experience with 170 different exhibits. You get a pass-out to allow you to leave and return all day, which is terrific for kids with a limited attention span.

There are some lovely old buildings in the centre of Brisbane. The Conrad Treasury Casino is a beautiful 19th century sandstone building which contrasts easily with the glitter and gambling within. Some think it appropriate that the place that was once the Treasury still collects a lot of money from the public.

St Stephen's Roman Catholic Cathedral has one of the world's finest collections of 19th-century stained glass. St John's Cathedral is a living artwork with vaulted ceilings, spectacular stained-glass windows and resident stonemasons at work.

Parliament House is a grand building, built in 1868 and inspired by the Louvre Museum in Paris. Parliament House backs on to the City Botanic Gardens, Queensland's leading heritage park. It's full of beautiful old trees and dates back to 1828. The Curator's Cottage is now the garden's café. For spectacular views, a planetarium and exotic plants, visit the Mt Coot-tha Lookout and Botanic Gardens. While there, you could take the 1.5- kilometre Mt Coot-tha Aboriginal Art Trail to see traditional artwork in a natural setting.

Just down in Fig Tree Pocket is the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary for those wanting to get up close to and personal with kangaroos, koalas, Tasmanian Devils and wombats, especially if time precludes visiting wildlife sanctuaries on the ‘coasts’. You can also take a cruise from the city.

The Queen Street Mall is the place to start for shopping. It's a pedestrian mall full of space, shade, light, al fresco eateries, free entertainment and, of course, department stores and shops. Whether you’re after Versace originals, Aboriginal art, grunge music, specialist books or body piercing – it's all within easy walking distance. The Piercing Shop offers free head massages while you wait for that tasteful navel stud.

Locals after bargains head to Stones Corner, about 4 kilometres south of the city centre. Local buses or trains will take you there for some great seconds and outlet shops. There are also major shopping centres in suburbs like Indooroopilly, Garden City, Carindale and Chermside – all of which are connected by public transport. Just 2 kilometres from the central city is Milton. Head for Park Road for shoes, cigars, Wedgwood and Waterford Crystal, and antiques, as well as good dining. The architecture in Milton and Paddington is unique with its pretty weatherboard 'Queenslander' houses.

Fortitude Valley is probably the best place to head for nightlife. Once it was a dark and sleazy place but it’s tidied its act. There are fine Chinese, Asian and Italian restaurants, some fun Irish pubs and pubs with good live bands.

A couple spots a little out of the city worth a visit are Manly for fishing, swimming (the beaches are good) or a picnic and a wander. The architecture and atmosphere is delightful. Moreton Island is a large sand island and a National Park. Catch a ferry from the Brisbane River or Scarborough. There are calm beaches on the west and a 36km surf beach on the east and you can get up close to dolphins at Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort.

More Information

For more information about Queensland:

• Events And Festivals
• Accommodation
• To See And Do
• Gold Coast
• Sunshine Coast
• The Great Barrier Reef
• Tropical North Queensland
• From Airlie Beach to Yeppoon

Queensland Tours With Tours To Go